Coyote Blue’s mild food would be better described as “New England Tex-Mex,” but if Campus Center burritos seem like they have gone a little too far south of the border, this café might rejuvenate the Southwestern region of your palate.
Despite its somewhat isolated location, the restaurant was popular even on a Sunday night. Waiting in the bar for our table to be cleared put us in the spirit, as we examined the cowboy paraphernalia and license plates from Southwestern states that hung from the rafters and lined the low partition.
For those who are of age, the bar menu’s 40-plus varieties of fine tequila is one of the unquestionable highlights of this restaurant. A margarita can be made with any selection, though the $6 house variety is more than adequate. Beer, wine and specialty drinks like sangria and mojitos are also available.
Upon entering the muted lighting of the simple wooded main dining room, we were treated to a plate of delicious homemade tortilla chips of varying colors and a nice medium salsa. These are definitely enough for appetizers, but the savory flavor of slow-roasted vegetables and the novelty of Nopales cactus made the tortilla-based Cactus Crisp another worthy choice.
The ice-cream-scoop’s worth of guacamole, however, was bland. More salt, cilantro and limejuice would have helped it pack the extra punch.
Unfortunately, the extra punch was not to be delivered at any point during the meal. Though Tex-Mex— a term used to describe Mexican-American food from southern Texas— often turns down the heat for American sensibilities, a few hotter items would have been highly appreciated. Even just a bit more salt and pepper would be a good start.
The chicken enchilada, a corn tortilla filled with cheese, topped with sauce and accompanied by rice and refried beans, came the closest to realizing its flavor potential. Its chili counterpart was a relatively bland disappointment in comparison, and the Fiesta quesadilla tasted like the soft, mild cheeses which are its main ingredients.
The gulf shrimp quesadilla had a bit more flavor, but it too fell short where it could have left a much bigger impression on the taste buds. The Southwestern salad with blackened steak and fresh avocado, a feature of the weekly special menu, was also a promising dish, but the steak only came well done, leaving most of the meat’s richness behind on the grill.
In addition to many of the quesadillas, the vegetarian menu includes the Desert Combo, an untraditional medley of a spinach and feta quesadilla, a cheese and scallion enchilada and a mushroom and cheese burrito. Though more evocative of the isles of Greece than the Texas desert, the feta gave the quesadilla more zest, which the rest of the dishes lacked.
The pumpkin flan we shared for dessert was satisfying for what it was, but it had a consistency more reminiscent of half-cooked pumpkin pie than flan.
Neither I, nor any of my guests had the stomach to sample them, but perhaps Coyote Blue’s huge burritos held the missing flair for this otherwise solid restaurant. The fillings range from chicken and beef to mushrooms and cheese to simple refried beans. For the hungry, but indecisive customer, the Burrito Grande combines all these ingredients into one.
With great service, a pleasant atmosphere, an impressive bar menu and funky décor, more spice should be the bottom line if this Tex Mex café wants to be truly representative of the Lone Star State.
Coyote Blue Tex Mex Café ** (two out of four stars)
1960 Saybrook Rd, Middletown; (860) 345-2403
Take Exit 10 off Route 9 South. Turn right at the end of the ramp, Coyote Blue is about 100 yards on your left.
Hours:
Tuesday through Friday: Bar and lounge open at 5 p.m., dining room opens at 5:30 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday: Bar, lounge and dining room open at 1 p.m.
Dinner is served until 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 9:30 p.m. on other nights
Atmosphere:
Simple, mellow and friendly, like a good Texas country café should be.
Recommended dishes:
Cactus Crisp, Chicken enchiladas, Southwestern salad with blackened steak, pumpkin flan, any margarita, sangria
Price range: Appetizers, $4.95 to $8.95; entrees, $6.95 to $13.95; desserts, about $4
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