Just when it seemed like South Main Street had wound its way too far beyond its commercial center to produce another restaurant, the road curved to reveal Haveli India and the adjacent Monte Green Motel. With an exterior reminiscent of a sunken, sheltered hunting lodge, the restaurant is like a secret portal to an enchanted realm in which good food, elegant atmosphere and Middletown find a rare convergence.
The magical aura dissipates upon taking in the interior decor—traditional Indian artwork intermingled with solemn portraits of the U.S. founding fathers, fake ivy and homey wicker creations adorn the walls of the three dining rooms, creating an unintentionally kitschy feel and reminding guests they haven’t quite left Middletown behind.
Some of the mystique returned, however, when the mile-long menu was opened, and the complimentary papadoms- spice-laden crackers- were dipped into lemon pickle or sweet and spicy chutneys, a smooth entrance into the world of Indian cuisine.
The appetizers on Haveli’s dinner menu range from a cool and tangy cucumber salad, to spicy lamb kababs, to pakoras—deep fried fritters stuffed with a choice of spiced vegetables dipped in a chickpea batter.
We sampled the samosas, triangular pastries stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas or ground lamb. In addition to being more traditional, the vegetarian version of this dish was also more flavorful. The lamb was too crumbly and lacked the perfect contrast between the smooth texture of the potatoes and the crispy outer shell.
The mulligatawny soup, another traditional Indian classic with lentils, chicken, rice and a touch of cream, was smooth and satisfying, though it was deficient in any kind of distinguishing flair.
This criticism is indicative of what is perhaps Haveli India’s only major shortfall—its chef hesitates to go out on an innovative limb, preferring to rely on comfortable, traditional flavors, recipes and combinations.
But when it comes to these standards, Haveli’s kitchen staff rarely falls short.
Universally acknowledged as the queen of Haveli’s dinner entrées, the chicken tikka masala, is a smooth combination of tender skinless and boneless chicken marinated in a blend of ginger; garlic, yogurt and various spices and baked before being sautéed with tomatoes, butter and cream. This, along with most of the dishes on the menu is served on top of deliciously buttery basmati rice.
Also essential as an accompaniment to all sauces and curries is naan, an unleavened Indian bread cooked in a clay oven. This soft chewy delicacy comes in garlic and chicken flavors in addition to the plain variety. Poori, an unleavened, deep-fried, hollow bread is light and delicate and definitely worth a try.
The mugalai murgh is another excellent chicken dish, with a similar creamy base sauce, given a different twist by the presence of tender mushrooms and crunchy cashew slices. A welcome relief from the heavy creaminess of many of the dishes, the chicken madras was cooked in a special chili sauce, which gave it an airy spiciness. The chicken saag was also good, this time achieving its smoothness through the introduction of creamy spinach.
While Haveli’s chicken dishes are inviting and accessible, the dark horse of the menu is the lamb vindaloo. Cooked with potatoes and a touch of vinegar, this extra spicy dish has personality that the chicken dishes sacrifice for smoothness and creaminess.
Other lamb favorites include rogan josh, which incorporates tomatoes and substitutes a lighter yogurt-based sauce in place of the heavy cream and the lamb curry, whose simpler sauce allows the meat itself to shape the dish’s flavor.
In contrast, the meat in the boti kebab masala, the lamb version of the chicken tikka masala, cried out for more assistance with flavor from its sauce and spice combination, leaving the taste buds stranded expectantly on the verge of pleasure.
As with most Indian menus, interesting vegetarian options abound at Haveli. Baigan bartha, eggplant cooked with ginger, tomatoes, onions and peas has a rich flavor, well complemented by the sweetness of naan. Similar in its composition to the chicken saag, the saag paneer has a delicious fresh Indian cottage cheese in place of meat. Dal makkani, spiced lentils sautéed in butter, is another a simple, but rich vegetarian selection.
All dishes can be ordered in mild, medium and spicy variations, although the spicy version of some dishes failed to pack the expected punch for those of us seeking truly eye-watering intensity.
Nonetheless, a cold Indian drink is still recommended to wash down the strong flavors. The yogurt-based mango lassi is a delightful blend of sweet and tangy, with the texture of a light milkshake. Haveli also has a good selection of Indian beers, the best being the full-bodied Taj Mahal.
The desserts we sampled had a welcome palate cleansing effect after the spicy flavors of the meal. The light, fruity mango ice cream was like a cool breath of fresh air. The rice pudding was also refreshing, but too thin and runny to be more than a sweet soup. We all received a sampling of gulab jamun, a homemade cheese ball dipped in syrup free with our meal.
Though Haveli is not inexpensive, especially on a student budget, Wesleyan students receive an automatic 10 percent discount. The portions are also sizable, with a high leftover value.
After a very satisfying, though unadventurous meal, we all left filled to the brim, bearing doggie bags with sampling from this land of enchantment sizable enough to spice up the rest of the week.
HAVELI INDIA *** (three out of four stars)
1300 South Main St.; (860) 347-7773
HOURS: Open seven days; Lunch, Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Lunch Buffet, Friday to Sunday, 12 to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday to Wednesday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday, 5-11 p.m.
ATMOSPHERE: Upscale, moderated by unintentionally humorous tacky interior décor.
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Vegetarian samosas, chicken tikka masala, lamb vindaloo, mango ice cream
PRICE RANGE: Lunch, $4.95 to $7.95; Buffet lunch (all you can eat), $7.95; Dinner, appetizers, $2.95 to $10.95; entrees, $6.95 to $14.95; desserts, $2.50 to $2.95
SERVICE: Enthusiastic, eager to please, accommodating for large parties and Wesleyan students
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