Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, crust, sauce and cheese lovers of all ages, it’s time once again for the Great Connecticut Pizza Debate. To all the lovers of Iliano’s and anchovy-obsessed devotees of Jerry’s secret White Sicilian (a delicious garlic, anchovy and herb pizza that is not on the menu and takes 90 minutes to make), we are truly sorry, but this is a debate that supersedes Middletown, a place where the pizza surprisingly betrays its Italian roots. We are, of course, talking about New Haven pizza, by most accounts some of the very best in the country — yes, including New York City.
In the name of concision and to unjustly slight all patrons of Modern Pizza, often cited as one of the three best pizza restaurants in New Haven, we will focus our pie-loving attention on Wooster Street, the heart of New Haven’s Little Italy and home to arguably (oh so arguably) the two best pizza places in the city: Frank Pepe’s and Sally’s Apizza.
Comparing Pepe’s to Sally’s is like comparing sex to sex. Each meets the requirements for truly great pizza: the light tomato sauce that scalds your mouth when you can’t wait to eat the first slice and the thin, charred crust that smudges onto your fingers and likely all over your face. That said, here are the deal breakers (your particular pizza place preferences will guide you to the right spot).
Pepe’s is considerably bigger than Sally’s and consequently has much more seating. Do not be discouraged by the perpetually long line that snakes out of Pepe’s front door, one that is almost always longer than that at Sally’s, because it will move much more quickly than its counterpart down the street. Sally’s is cozy and pleasantly old-school, but it can take a long time to get in and even longer to get your pizza (we’re talking two hours entrance to exit). It’s not worth the wait. Pepe’s pizza is just as good, if not better…unless you’re in the market for white clam. Sally’s white clam pizza is undeniably better than the one at Pepe’s. It’s as if God poured garlic and olive oil into the ocean and spread it atop the best pizza crust you’ve ever had.
Whether it’s a white clam at Sally’s, or anything else at Pepe’s, just make the trip to New Haven to experience what was really at stake when you were rejected from Yale.
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