When The Argus editors asked me if I would consider writing about diner food for this week’s column, I was immediately receptive to the idea: it so happens that I’m completely fascinated by diners and the hearty, dependable, gut-busting fare that they tend to serve.
In fact, when I was younger, I used to imagine that I would one day embark on a grand road trip in order to photograph diners near and far and sample their distinctive regional specialties, ultimately presenting my findings in a book (needless to say, I was food-obsessed even as a child). I might still get around to that project some day, you know, after I learn how to drive. Details, details. (Incidentally, if you think you might like to read about the origins and myriad permutations of American diners, you should check out the excellent series of books written by Jane and Michael Stern—their 1977 classic “Roadfood” is a good place to start.)
There are lots of things I like about diners, but a few specific thoughts come to mind immediately. I like that their menus are usually pages and pages long, so that anyone can find something that they want to eat. I like that there are often a handful of wacky and far-out dishes on those menus, like old-school liver and onions, or a randomly placed “exotic” option like duck à l’orange. I can’t say that I ever order those things, but the knowledge that I could is comforting. Finally, the thing that I like best about diners is that many of them are open 24 hours. There’s just nothing like that 3 a.m., tired-but-exhilarated (and most likely inebriated) feeling that you get at a diner in the wee hours—it’s immensely satisfying.
I’ve found that when I sit down to eat at a diner, one pressing issue must be settled outright, and that is the choice between sweet and savory. On the one hand, you’ve got the temptations of the entire category of carb-heavy, nutritionally devoid delights: fluffy pancakes the size of your head, stacked three deep and drowning in butter and syrup; Belgian waffles with ice cream on top; a rotating selection of gooey, sugary pies. It’s an enticing array, to be sure. But, on the other hand, you’ve got the siren song of the oily, salty side of the menu: three-egg omelets stuffed to bursting with cheeses; juicy burgers topped with bacon; crunchy french fries and onion rings. It’s always a tough call or, in my case, a truly agonizing decision.
In order to avoid that Sophie’s Choice altogether, I’m providing two equally appealing, diner-inspired recipes this week. Coming down on the sweet side is a rich and eggy Stuffed French Toast, and representing the savory set is crisp and addictive Maple-Roasted Bacon. They’re each enjoyable on their own, but why choose? You’d do best to make both. Trust me.
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Stuffed French Toast (Recipe adapted from the PBS series “Everyday Food”)
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
– 1 baguette, cut into 8 one-inch-thick slices
– 3 tablespoons jam or jelly, any flavor
– 1/4 cup cream cheese, at room temperature
– 2 large eggs
– 1/2 cup milk
– 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
– 2 tablespoons butter
– Maple syrup, for serving
Preparation:
1. Using a small, sharp knife, cut a horizontal slit into each piece of bread, creating a small pocket. In a bowl, combine the jam and cream cheese. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the mixture into each pocket.
2. In a shallow dish, mix together the eggs, milk and cinnamon. Lay 4 of the filled slices in the egg mixture, allowing them to soak for about 30 seconds per side. Repeat with the other 4 slices.
3. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Cook the French toast until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes per side, adding more butter if needed. Serve with maple syrup.
Maple-Roasted Bacon (Recipe adapted from the Food Network series “The Barefoot Contessa”)
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
– 3/4 pound bacon (16 slices)
– 2-3 tablespoons maple syrup
Preparation:
1. Preheat the oven to 400°.
2. Arrange the bacon in one layer on a sheet pan. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the bacon begins to brown and has rendered most of its fat.
3. Carefully remove the bacon from the tray and drain off all fat.
4. Place the bacon back on the tray, coat each slice with some maple syrup (a pastry brush works best, but you can also spoon the syrup), and bake for 3-5 more minutes until bacon is crisp.
5. Drain on paper towels and serve.
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