Illiano’s is just what I want in a pizza joint down the block. There are two locations in Middletown, the slightly larger one located on South Main, and the other located on Washington. The friendly service, casual atmosphere and delicious food make it one of my favorite pizza places in Middletown.
The South Main Street branch was bustling and crowded on a recent Saturday night, yet there was no wait for a table. And no wait for food either – as soon as you arrive someone will offer you a mini slice of pizza. This small but adequately sized restaurant is adorned with red booths and pictures on the walls. Not only is there free pizza, but crayons are provided for everyone’s entertainment. Appealing to all ages, this comfortable restaurant manages to successfully fill its niche.
The menu includes many traditional appetizers found at both pizza shops and Italian restaurants. The garlic knots are incredible – for a mere 35 cents you receive a round, hot knot of doughy heaven topped with olive oil and bits of minced fresh garlic. Be careful who you kiss after this one. If that isn’t enough garlic for you, there is always the garlic bread. The crispy crust envelopes a soft center of buttery garlic. The fried calamari appetizer arrived heaped with an overabundance of crisp fried calamari that was not a bit chewy, and it was excellent dipped in marinara sauce and sprinkled with lemon juice. The large portion somehow managed to disappear, as the rest of the table was eager to dip in.
The salads I sampled were fresh and tasty. The chicken caeser was topped with freshly grilled chicken and the Italian salad came with pungent gorgonzola, olives and roasted peppers, and was delicious topped with the house vinaigrette. The menu also includes pastas, fish, meat and paninis.
Then there is the main event: the pizza. From my first free sampling of the thin crust topped with gooey cheese and slightly sweet sauce, I was hooked. Whole pizzas come in either small or large sizes, and there are many interesting gourmet options as well as the Sicilian, square pizza with a thick crust. Each night a variety of gourmet pizzas are also offered by the slice. Although they might seem pricey at $2.95, these extra large slices of pizza are definitely worth it. The buffalo chicken pizza was incredible – the sweet and spicy barbecue sauce harmonized with the cheese and tender grilled chicken. This is truly one great slice of pizza. The margherita pizza was also delicious, topped with chunks of fresh mozzarella and basil. The tomato pesto was good, although it should have been tastier topped with cheese, tomato and pesto. It could have benefited from some sauce for added flavor and sweetness.
There are a few dessert options that are not on the menu, but are pictured on a card on the table. I tried the cannoli, whose beautifully presented crisp and sweet shell is filled with a rich chocolate chip-cheese filling and comes topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. For a moment, I pictured myself back in Sicily, the home of the cannoli. Upon leaving the restaurant I was reminded of where I was as I passed a picture on the wall of a fat baby in chef’s attire– the pizza shop’s equivalent of the dancing baby.
The bottom line: It is worth venturing off of Main Street for some great pizza served with a smile.
Illiano’s Ristorante and Pizzeria, 404 South Main St.
Illiano’s Pizzeria, 534 Washington St.
Price: Main dishes range from $7.25 – $16.95, large pizzas range from $11.30 – $23.95
Best bets: garlic knots, buffalo chicken pizza, margherita pizza, cannoli
3 out of 4 cardinals
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