Spring has finally arrived here in Middletown, and I couldn’t be happier. All across campus the flowering trees are in riotous full bloom, daffodils and tulips are pushing their way up through the earth in front of the woodframe houses, and cheery yellow dandelions sprinkle the bright green expanses of all the manicured lawns: it’s like a Monet painting out there.
And not a moment too soon, right? I was really getting tired of the cold, dreary weather, and was ecstatic to finally put away my winter coat and boots.
I’m ready for a change—and so is my palate. Although I love the hearty, filling soups, stews and casseroles of winter—true comfort foods—by the time spring comes around I’m eager for lighter, brighter flavors and textures. For me, spring is all about the lovely produce nature has to offer: tender young salad greens and lettuces; sweet, crunchy snow peas and sugar snap peas; tiny white new potatoes; asparagus, artichokes, rhubarb and strawberries, to name just a few that come to mind.
It’s true that nowadays we can get these items year-round, from California or Chile or India or wherever. But they still taste best at this time of year, when they’re actually in season. Imagine how truly exciting and refreshing it must have been, in the olden days, to finally eat something green and fresh and flavorful after months of nothing but pickled, cured, and jarred fruits and vegetables.
In that spirit, and in celebration of the arrival of my favorite season, the recipe I’m offering this week showcases the best of all the wonderful spring vegetables that are available right now. I’m calling it Spring Risotto, and it was inspired by a recipe I saw in The New York Times a few weeks ago called “The Pope’s Risotto,” prepared for Benedict XVI on the occasion of his recent visit to New York. The Pope, you see, wanted food that was “light and seasonal”—nothing too heavy, rich, or spicy. I’m with you, Pope.
P.S. I’m graduating in a few weeks, so I’ll take a moment to say goodbye. Keep eating well, Wesleyan, and if you’d like to follow my continuing adventures with food and food writing, log onto my blog at in-good-taste.blogspot.com.
Spring Risotto
Adapted from The New York Times
Serves 6
Ingredients:
* 3 tablespoons olive oil
* 1/2 cup finely chopped scallions, both white and green parts (about 6-8 scallions)
* 2 1/2 cups short-grain rice (I use the “sushi rice” from Weshop—you can also use the short-grain brown rice; allow 8-10 minutes more cooking time)
* 7 cups hot chicken or vegetable stock (keep warm over low heat)
* 1 cup frozen green peas, or fresh shelled peas if available
* 1 cup asparagus, sliced into 1/2-inch chunks (about 10-12 stalks)
* 1 cup snap peas, sliced in half
* 2 tablespoons butter
* 1 cup grated parmesan
* Zest of one lemon
* 1/2 cup basil leaves, shredded
* Salt
* Pepper
Preparation:
1. Blanch the vegetables: boil heavily salted water in a medium pot and add the frozen peas, asparagus and snap peas. Cook for 4-6 minutes, until vegetables are bright green and tender. Drain in a colander and run cold water over them to stop the cooking. Set aside.
2. For the risotto: over medium heat, heat the olive oil in a large, wide, heavy pot. Cook the scallions until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add rice, stir to coat, and cook 2 minutes more.
3. Start adding the stock about 1 cup at a time. The rice should remain partly covered by liquid at all times. Stir frequently; rice will absorb the stock gradually. Keep adding stock until rice is almost fully cooked but still al dente; this should take 18-20 minutes. In the last few minutes of cooking, add the vegetables as well as a generous amount of salt and pepper. When the risotto is finished it will be creamy and moist but not soupy.
4. Remove the pot from the heat and add the butter; stir until incorporated. Stir in half the parmesan, half the lemon zest, and half the basil. Taste and adjust for seasoning.
5. Serve in bowls and top portions with remaining parmesan, lemon zest and basil.
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