Monday, June 30, 2025



A Tale of Two Cities: Traveling in Ecuador

There are many ways to get to places in Ecuador, and I have experienced almost all of them, except for the plane and llama. This is a summary of transportation in Ecuador, in case this column has inspired you to visit.

Taxis
Taxis are cheap and get you places very quickly if you have the luck of wanting to travel when there isn’t much traffic—although this is almost never the case. In a taxi you can learn lots of bad words from the driver as he crosses the yellow line and cuts off a school bus (my favorite bad word: hijo de puta). However, you might be a victim of secuestrar express, which is when the driver pretends that he is a Nice Guy but really drives you to a different place that is deserted and leaves you there with a pack of malnourished wild dogs after robbing you of all your possessions. This has happened to a friend of mine and is my Greatest Fear in Quito.

Local Bus/Ecoviva
The cheapest way to get around the city other than on your own two feet is taking the bus or Ecoviva (bus that only goes on one very long street). To catch a bus, you must have ESP and know where each bus is going because they all look alike and I haven’t detected any markings to differentiate between the identical long, blue, black-smoke-spewing buses. After making the leap onto the bus, all the fun starts. Since I am taller than most Ecuadorians, many people have tended to use my extremities as handrails when the bus slams on the breaks to avoid crashing into another bus. To make the ride even more dangerous, the buses are driven in nonsensical figure-eight patterns; therefore, as everyone is sloshed around together, invariably someone’s hairgel gets smeared all over me. At the very least, the surfaces to hold on are always lathered in hair gel. I hate hairgel. Once you have reached your exact destination/are suffocating in hairgel and can’t take it anymore, you just yell “PARRE!” and leap off the platform into the thick black smoke coming from the previous bus. You might land on a vendor entering the bus to sell chips, but at least you can go wash off the hairgel.

Long Distance Buses
Long distance buses are awesome because when you wake up you are in another place and en route, you can eat delicious snacks sold by vendors who threaten to dump them on your head if you don’t purchase one. There are two ways of catching a long-distance bus. The first, more formal way involves going to a bus terminal and buying a ticket to the location. The second, more common manner involves walking down the street and waiting until a bus comes roaring by and the busman yells the destination at you, just in case it sparks a desire to travel. The competition once got so fierce that two busmen got in a fight over which of their buses I would choose. Every bus claims to be “Direct,” but they invoke a slightly more creative use of the term. Each bus stops at every congregation of people along the way to try and hustle them into taking the bus, and also stops whenever someone yells “PARRE.” If you are a sophisticated Bus-Taker, you can make the bus stop at your house, but I haven’t learned how to do this yet. Buses are also awesome because they are BYOB; while I highly encourage the traditional connotation of BYOB, in Ecuador it means Bring Your Own Barn-animal. Last week, there were three sheep on top of my bus and cuyes (guinea pigs) in someone’s lap. There was also a band of school children playing flutes and guitars. Then, after all of this, the morning comes and hopefully you still have all your belongings when you groggily step off the bus at your destination.

Just a note, when traveling in Ecuador, always bring Purell and toilet paper because you WILL have to touch hairgel and you will have use bathrooms that are merely holes without luxuries like toilet paper and flushes.

Comments

16 responses to “A Tale of Two Cities: Traveling in Ecuador”

  1. Ken Avatar
    Ken

    What an ass! You should NOT be traveling whatsoever, you should STAY AT HOME! Neither those of us who appreciate other cultures not the poor natives who unfortunately encounter you need or want your type around.

    Get a real life!

  2. Maryanne Avatar
    Maryanne

    What a pitiful dork this Liza Conrad is. I have visited the beautiful country of Ecuador many time and I LOVE their culture. If you are not satisfied with what you have found, just do not return. I hope your article will keep ALL of those such as yourself away from Ecuador, and every other wonderful area throughout the world. Why do your type even travel, other than to bitch? Do you really think you are better than those you visit? Not very likely!!

  3. David Mccollam Avatar
    David Mccollam

    I have lived in Ecuador (4 years) and found this report accurate and offered in a humorous way.
    She didn’t play on the maniacal driving habits of most of the drivers.
    I like accuracy with a little humor.. Otherwise only read children’s books .

  4. Ricardo Avatar
    Ricardo

    Written from the perspective somewhat reminiscent of the ‘gringas’ i was in the peace corps with from 1976-1978 who did not like the “purple toilet paper” from that period of time. I believe the sociologist call this a case of ethnocentrism or one time was called the “ugly american.” i would prefer that all “foreigners,” and tourists stay out of my beautiful adopted “home country.” You just cause the prices of everything to increase….and make a spectacle of yourself with the way you run around the country dressed in native dress as if you were a native from Otavalo. It is embarrassing to see….

  5. Mark Avatar
    Mark

    Much safer to drive your own car around Ecuador…

  6. Waas Busa Avatar
    Waas Busa

    I do not understand some of the reactions to the main article esp those by Ricardo and Ken. Liza’s article was by no means derogative or insulting. I do not think she can be described as ” the ugly American”. The article was written with some wit and was not insulting, contrary to some reactions. I know Ecuador quite well, having lived there many years being married to an Ecuadorian. I now live in Colombia. I like Latin people and traveled through South America for months on end. But loving a country does not mean closing one’s eyes to reality. I have lived many years in the US as well, I do not agree with many things American, but it does not mean I must condemn the Americans. I love the American people as being hospitable, friendly and generous. Of course there are assholes as in most countries, including Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, you name it, including people replying to Liza’s article.
    And don’t forget: the clock of life is wound but once. So enjoy it without being riled up because you don’t agree with someone’s point-of-view.

  7. bruno stornaiolo Avatar
    bruno stornaiolo

    Well. you must be careful anywhere on this planet. What is the difference between the buses in Ecuador or the gray hounds in the US ? or the troleys in Beijing ?
    I find the description deeply derogatory and insulting to an entire rich culture. As the other commentaries say it clear, this article only exposes the bigotry and false sense of cultural superiority of the author.
    If you can not enjoy other cultures, just sit at your couch like all the other 243 million obese patriots in the beautiful USA.

  8. Mike Avatar
    Mike

    What a shame someone as this author even had the privilege of experiencing such a fine country and culture. It is because of the likes of her, and some of the others who have commented in her favour, that the term ‘Gringo” has come to mean the obnoxious Americano. Viva Andes! To Hell with those of you who cannot appreciate the realities of the real world. Do you REALLY think you are superior? Stay home, nobody wants your sort in their communities. Pitiful indeed!

  9. Rachel Avatar
    Rachel

    ok granted…out of context this may seem negative. but you really have to live here to see the humor in this article. anywhere you go TRAVELING SUCKS. ecuador has its own particular flavor and THAT is what Liza is trying to get at. I’ve lived here for 6 months and this is hilariously accurate. every one who is freaking out needs to take a CHILL PILL.

  10. Ramel Avatar
    Ramel

    Rachel, if “anywhere you go TRAVELING SUCKS”, then why do you bother to travel at all? It is those such as yourself who make it so terribly embarrassing when you travel to these countries. I have lived in the Ecuador Andes for quite some time now and I find traveling rather refreshing. Can’t you wannabe transplants see past your own noses?

  11. Lauren Kuhlik Avatar
    Lauren Kuhlik

    hey people who responded:
    as the person mentioned who was abandoned by a taxi driver near a pack of wild dogs (haha), I can tell you that Liza and I love Ecuador and have highly enjoyed our time here. However, the traveling–as Liza aptly described–can be difficult and dangerous. We travel, Ramel, because the destinations are amazing, because we want to learn as much as possible about this diverse and culturally rich country and because traveling gives us perspective, stories and the remarkable ability to jump off a moving bus. Anyone who doesn’t understand how to make a difficult situation (getting robbed by a taxi driver, having to find your way around a country where you don’t understand the rules or speak the language fluently) humorous may end up not enjoying their stay. I assure you all that Liza, Rachel and the rest of us love being abroad and Liza’s piece just gives us another chance to laugh at the little mistakes or difficulties we’ve had and made along the way.

  12. Demetria Avatar
    Demetria

    What a funny article! This reminds me of Dave Barry’s story about trying to ride the trains in Japan.

  13. Linn Avatar
    Linn

    I loved your story Liza. My husband and I are getting ready to move to Cuenca, Ecuador and will keep your humourous words in mind as we get acclimated to our new home. You made me laugh, and I too can find humor and still love a place.

    I lived in Korea for a year and have some pretty funny stories about it – but absolutely loved it. And boy, are there some funny stories about living right here in the good old USA.

    Keep up the good work with your travel tales and don’t mind the jerks who I agree should take a chill-pill.

  14. Tim H Avatar
    Tim H

    The story was great! The ones complaining are the ones that have made this world appear (to them) to be so bad. If you look for bad you will find it. If you look for good you will find it. Traveling does suck but the destination makes it all worth while. Thanks for your story.

  15. Maria Avatar
    Maria

    i think the article represented exactly what Ecuador offers, and by no means the article was derogatory at all. The article was truthful and to the point. I am sorry for the closed minded people that do not want to see the reality and admit it and rather ignore what happens in a country. Also, just in case anyone is wondering… I was born and raise in Ecuador and I do not consider this derogatory at all.

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