Only near a campus with so many vegetarians could there be two well-respected Thai restaurants thriving a block away from each other. While Thai Gardens remains the tried and true, Typhoon shines as the vibrant newcomer, elevated by the bubbly co-owner and manager, Tata. Although the friendly owner remains an icon and the food is generally good, the service leaves something to be desired.
Typhoon was originally located in a much smaller venue on Main Street, but the new location is able to accommodate the swarms of people looking for Thai food these days. On a recent Saturday night there was even corny live music to entertain the masses as we waited for our food. Tata dramatically sat down next to us and took down the orders, never losing track of the operation going on around her.
And an operation it is, if at times inconsistent. On one visit my friend requested more white rice, and we were asked if brown rice was sufficient. It was only after a long wait and a second request that we were finally served the rice. Another night after we had already ordered our food, we were asked to change seats. The waitress bringing our appetizers had to search the room to locate us.
The food generally makes up for the scattered service. For starters, there are appetizers, salads and soups. My favorite Thai soup, Tom Yum, sparks the taste buds with its tangy lemon-grass flavor. Another delicious soup is the seaweed soup. The taste of seaweed in the strong, salty broth is a familiar one, but the clear cellophane noodles, soft tofu, and vegetables create a fresh combination.
Other appetizers are hit-and-miss. Beware of the fried chicken dumplings: they arrive looking more like fried noodles. When the dumplings arrived we didn’t even think the dish was ours. Don’t be fooled by appearances, though: the chicken filling is delicious. The golden triangle appetizer, made of crispy fried tofu and served with sweet duck sauce, was slightly bland.
The entrees are divided into stir-fries, Thai curry, rice and noodles, and pho noodle soups. Typhoon’s stir-fried entrees are mediocre, and this is perhaps one department where Thai Gardens tends to have more interesting flavors and sauces. The chicken with broccoli was too mild for my tastes, and came with a bland broth-like sauce. The rama chicken was tasty, but was swimming in the peanut sauce. Laab looks almost like a salad with minced chicken and vegetables and has a taste reminiscent of chili broth. This one isn’t for the faint of heart, and takes some getting used to.
What Typhoon lacks in stir-fries, it more than makes up for in curries. Typhoon’s red curry is served in a big bowl filled with spicy and creamy red coconut broth, and a choice of meat and vegetables. Also delicious is their mango curry, a sweeter choice with hints of fruity flavorings.
That staple of the Thai table, pad Thai, is an item I would readily order at Thai Gardens, but shy away from at Typhoon. The sweet taste of Thai Garden’s pad Thai will always surpass the blander versior at Typhoon. Yet there are many other noodle dishes Typhoon has mastered, including the delicious pan golden noodle, consisting of thin stir-fried noodles, vegetables and egg in a sweet garlic sauce. The pad see-eu is also worth ordering. Chewy thick noodles stir-fried with vegetables make for a satisfying and tasty noodle dish.
?Most would not opt for desserts at Typhoon, but if you do choose to venture to the sweet side of Asian cooking, I recommend the Thai custard. Served in a ramkin, this eggy pumpkin custard consists of pureed pumpkin and coconut milk and tastes like a soufflé, except for its denser consistency.
Even if you do not feel adventurous enough to order desserts, your sweet tooth will still be satisfied; no meal at Typhoon is complete without the mini candy bars presented with the check. Tata knows that good food and chocolate is the way to anyone’s heart.
The Bottom Line: Even with a friendly owner, it’s hard not to notice the slow service. The food, however, is generally good.
Typhoon, 360 Main St, Middletown
Hours: Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m. – 9:30 p.m., Sunday 12:30 a.m. – 9:00 p.m., Every day closed 3:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Price: $7.95 – $16.95
Best Bets: Tom Yum soup, seaweed soup, pad see-eu, pan golden noodle, red curry
2 out of 4 cardinals
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