Oh Ari Zito, how could this happen? Sally’s?! As another lifelong veteran of the New Haven pizza scene and a two-decade combatant in this culinary feud, I must take issue with you on your choice of Wooster Street pizzerias. I was born in New Haven and raised but a few miles away, in the suburban WASP neighborhood of Spring Glen in Hamden. Weekly pilgrimages to Wooster Street have been on my menu since before I can even remember. While I certainly cannot dispute that Sally’s is delicious beyond belief, I just don’t think I can say in good conscience that it is better than Pepe’s.
My last trip to Sally’s turned into a 3-plus hour wait outside the door, and while the pizza waiting within was tasty, I found myself craving a Pepe’s pie. I have never encountered a crust there with this alleged “chewy” texture, despite my dozens of lunches and dinners spent in those numbered booths, and Miriam is undoubtedly correct in asserting that the pepperoni is superior. And I’d like to see Sally’s try to compete with that white clam pizza. The grease that graces a Pepe’s pie and its wax paper seat only adds to the deliciousness that is unmatched by any pizzeria this world has ever known. The crust is perfection incarnate, thin and crisp, and positively redolent with that burnt brick oven taste that is nearly impossible to find these days.
But rather than wage war on these pages, I’d like to make a few suggestions to my fellow Wesleyanites regarding New Haven fare. First, decide for yourself. I have fought this battle with many a diner and have found that it is an eternal struggle. Neither restaurant will win. Second, don’t limit yourself to Wooster Street. Modern Apizza on nearby State Street is an excellent second choice if the lines are too daunting for Sally’s and Pepe’s. The Bru Room (also known as just “Bar” because of the large neon sign outside) on Crown Street, across from Louie’s Lunch, makes its own delicious beer (I recommend the toasted blonde) as well as a spectacular mashed potato and garlic pizza. Hard core pizza purists like my father may fault me for this, but you really must try for yourself. Lastly and most importantly, never, ever, ever leave Wooster Street without finishing your evening off at Libby’s, right next door to Pepe’s. Save some room in your stomach for their unrivaled italian ice and wide variety of cannoli, all of which are spectacular.
Mr. Zito, you are a good friend and can definitely kick my ass, but I just can’t let you get away with this. I could sense your bias after I had barely begun to read Miriam’s article. The true connoisseur of pizza must enter the restaurant with a clean palate and an impartial mind. What say we head to Wooster Street and try this taste test again? Perhaps one of us will
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