It’s hard to say exactly what components make a good restaurant, but judging by how hard it is to secure a Saturday night reservation at Roomba in New Haven, Co-Owner and Head Chef Arturo Franco-Camacho seems to have the answer. Although the Nuevo Latino restaurant is slightly steep for your average college student, the quality of food and atmosphere are worth the splurge.

Red brick walls and stone table tops accentuated by dark wood paneling and candle light set a hip, minimalist tone for the subterranean space. If you are lucky or you know Juan, the host, you’ll be seated in wooden barstools at a high counter with an open view of the kitchen. If not, the backlit cotton upholstered banquettes are comfortable nonetheless.

The cocktails are as proper as the atmosphere. Typical of any pan-Latin endeavor, Mojitos and Sangria rule the top of the list—and for good reason. Served in a chilled pint glass and garnished with a stick of candied sugar cane, the Mojito is a perfect blend of fresh muddled mint and rum. The Red Sangria is deceptively simple, but its floral aroma is indicative of good wine and fresh fruit. For those with a penchant for beer, try something more authentic and exotic like a Brazilian Xingu.

With appetizers like the “Chino Latino;” a Cuban-style pork spring roll served with black beans and an orange chipotle sauce, and the Empanadas; served with duck, foie gras, tropical fruit chutney and a pear balsamic mojo, the menu is a sophisticated fusion of Latin American and world cuisine.

Franco-Camacho, for better or worse, likes to take a staple ingredient and prepare it multiple ways in one dish. For example, one special featured pork “two ways”—as a loin stuffed with raisins and pineapple and shredded with a medley of tomato, hominy, peas, and razor thin slices of shallot and ginger. Both preparations were placed over a potato cake infused with chorizo sausage and topped with a merlot reduction. Another dish on the set menu combines duck leg confit with a seared breast, ordered medium-rare and served medium-well, with purple Peruvian mashed potatoes, quince fennel ragout and a rum orange ginger sauce.

Notable fish offerings were, of course, the house ceviche; the Caribbean-style barbecued grilled salmon with Moro rice, lemongrass sauce, and fried banana; and the citrus crusted grilled tuna loin served with lentil tacu tacu, sautéed greens, and Peruvian black bean miso sauce. For the more adventurous, the pumpkin seed crusted sea bass, with a malange puree, eggplant caviar, and green apple curry sauce was an unusual yet satisfying balance of savory and sweet.

Whether Mom and Dad are in town or you’re looking for a loud and crowded place to have a memorable Friday evening with your significant other, skip Main Street, Middletown, and head to New Haven for a worthwhile dining experience. Roomba will not disappoint. Just be sure to call Juan and make a reservation well in advance because Franco-Camacho caters to a full house almost every night of the week.