To experience the true heart and spirit of Ireland, head to Cork, rather than the cosmopolitan, tourist-hub of Dublin. The city’s residents are historically proud to maintain their heritage, since Cork played a key role in Ireland’s struggle for independence. Cork boasts a storybook setting upon the banks of the River Lee, as well as copious cultural offerings by way of the arts, music, and dining scene. In fact, it was voted the European Capital of Culture in 2005. But if you want to see the city’s true colors, stick with tradition and slip into a pub with some locals for a pint and a perfect Irish evening.
The rivalry between this city and Dublin is intense, and Corkonians are quick to list the qualities of Cork’s people and culture that they believe make their town superior.
“Cork City is better than Dublin because it’s not as populated, not as commercialized,” Laurie Power, a native of Cork and a visiting international student (VINT), said. “I think the people are friendlier, and the city is smaller and more spaced out. Dublin’s not as fun.”
Nessan O’Connor, another VINT and a Limerick, Ireland native who has lived in Cork for the past five years, appreciates Cork for its particularly Irish character.
“There’s still humanity there,” O’Connor said. “Dublin thinks it belongs to Milan. It’s got notions of grandeur. It’s become pretty high profile. But there’s not anything in particular that’s there, so it’s not worth it. Cork actually captures the Irish spirit better.”
Nicknamed the Rebel City, Cork’s natives are particularly proud of their seditious roots. The name refers partly to the prominent role Cork played in the Irish War of Independence (1919–1921) and to its position as an anti-treaty stronghold during the Irish Civil War (1922–23).
“The best thing about Cork is its history: when the county was taken by the British, the Corkonians took it back,” O’Connor explained. “Cork people don’t have the same darkness that other areas have because of their rebellious past. It’s more positive and proud.”
Around Town
Cork is a place to get lost in winding alleyways and ancient streets, so skip the “Must Do” list and let your feet find the rhythm of this city.
“Corkonians preserve a lot of their heritage, so there are a lot of alleyways,” O’Connor said. “They built around them instead of trying to destroy them. It has a river that splits in two and it’s built into a valley, so it’s quite beautiful. Ireland doesn’t have marvels like the Empire State Building, so when you visit, get to know the people and experience the culture.”
That being said, a few noteworthy places are worth checking out if you must do a bit of sightseeing. Located just 10 miles from Cork, Fota Wildlife Park—the only wildlife park in all of Ireland—houses a collection of rare and endangered species in an open and natural setting. Should you feel your trip to Ireland would not be complete without visiting a castle, Power recommended the 16th century Barryscourt Castle, which is in Carrigtwohill, in Eastern County Cork. (Note: the castle is open from late May through late September.)
To see firsthand how Irish whiskey is made, make sure to stop at the restored 18th century Old Midleton Distillery and Jameson Heritage Center. Take a guided tour through the historic buildings that have been used to produce Irish whiskey for hundreds of years. And don’t fear that you’ll leave with dry lips—each visit ends with an Irish whiskey tasting session.
Restaurants
Although Cork offers a plentiful array of traditionally Irish restaurants and pubs, the city’s dining scene is impressively eclectic and creative.
Power recommended Il Padrino, an Italian restaurant on Cook Street.
“You can get pizzas, pastas, salads and all that sort of stuff,” she said.
Had a few too many pints last night at the pub? Head to Puccino’s on Paul Street for a full Irish breakfast. These typically include fried eggs, black pudding (blood sausage), toast or fried bread, baked beans, fried mushrooms, rashers (bacon), and a smattering of other options.
“It’s the one place I regularly go to after a hangover,” O’Connor said.
O’Connor also recommended the Bodega at St. Peter’s Market building in Cork’s historic Coal Quay. The building began as Cork’s first indoor market in 1788, and it now houses a nightclub along with the restaurant.
Music and Nightlife
On any given night in Cork, you are likely to meet locals in pubs around town, and most would be happy to take you into their favorite watering hole.
“If you’re only there for a night, find a local, get them to take you out to a pub and have a great night,” O’Connor said.
If you’re there on a Thursday, you’re in luck.
“That’s the night that students head out,” Power said, who typically enjoys going to a bar and then a club when going out for a night on the town.
She recommended An Brog, a pub located on Oliver Plunkett Street near the Grand Parade, as long as you go later on in the night.
“An Brog is one of my favorite pubs. Before half past nine it’s just an ordinary old man’s pub, but then they put up a gate and there’s a dance space inside and a DJ,” Power said.
O’Connor suggested checking out The Oval, which is on South Main Street and the intersection with Tuckey street.
“The roof is actually oval,” O’Connor explained. “It’s like something out of Harry Potter, and there are candles all over the place. The music’s fantastic, it’s all rock. The bar staff have great taste.”
There are also a variety of live music venues to suit your tastes. O’Connor recommended Cypress Avenue (on Caroline Street), the Savoy (on St. Patrick Street), Crane Lane (on Phoenix Street), the Pavilion (on Carey’s Lane), the Old Oak (on Oliver Plunckett Street), the Quad (on Tuckey Street), and the metal bar, Fred Zeppelins (on Parliament Street).
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