Upon entering Eli Cannon’s, I was immediately overwhelmed by the incredible media overload in the bar area. The atmosphere is a subdued festiveness with a tendency toward random pop culture icons plastered on the wall. There were four different movies and two different sports on the numerous televisions, Marilyn Manson on the speakers, and the hostess was absolutely nowhere to be found. However, the extensive selection of beer on tap was enough to forgive the wait and general confusion associated with getting a table: I cozied up to my pretentious microbrew and engaged in small chat at the bar until I could sit.
I started out with a few appetizers, unable to resist the urge to try the fried alligator. This was a strange one, with a distant, muddled fishiness and a chicken-like consistency. Overall, this unique dish was unremarkable, and I might have been just as well getting chicken tenders, but I feel pretty cool for having eaten a gator. The artichoke dip, on the other hand, was really first rate, accentuating the fatty flavor of the artichoke and subtle spices that matched the bitterness of the beer spectacularly. If you’re looking for bar food, straying too far from the appetizer menu may not be your best bet.
The time between courses, for me, is always the metaphorical condensation point for the atmosphere and décor of a restaurant. I observed multiple parties sitting in silence, staring in awe at the televisions and piles of signs and culturally loaded objects hanging from the walls and ceiling. The menu itself looks like an anarchist zine produced by MTV, and the place confesses its calculated spontaneity a bit too readily. However, I felt comfortable among the strange combination of suits and flannel that populated the bar, and I think in general the atmosphere, though overproduced, is a success.
I chose the ribs, mostly because the server indicated them to be very popular. I also liked the idea of the chilidogs or shepherd’s pie. The ribs were quite good, bridging the gap between dry and wet ribs with a spicy rub and a sweet barbecue sauce. Despite being a bit overdone, they tasted good and didn’t get old, but I think one would do better with another item. Both the regular and sweet potato fries were great: the sweet potato fries come with an absolutely amazing sauce that tastes like liquid brown sugar. This is a trend here – they have a separate sauce menu, believe it or not. My mother always said that a focus on sauce indicates something being covered up.
I had the opportunity to try two other entrees—a veggie Xpresso burger and the New Orleans quesadilla. The quesadilla was good, with cheese, crawfish tail meat, and scallions, but despite being so distinctive I felt it was uninspired. The fish taste was very subtle but encapsulated the Creole flavors for a very mild result. The burger was a real diamond in the rough. The veggie patty itself was of high quality, and the sweetness of the peppers complimented the rest of the sandwich without overpowering the other flavors. Supposedly there is espresso in it, but I didn’t taste it at all. The chipotle sauce finished the burger very well, making it a distinctive and reliable entrée.
But all of this is almost beside the point – Eli Cannon’s is a bar, and the beer selection is incredible. Dogfish Head, Magic Hat, several of their own beers: the superabundance of choice makes selecting and tasting a beer a real joy. I can imagine myself spending a lot of time at the bar, trying new beers and eating embarrassing amounts of artichoke dip. But at five dollars a beer for the fancier microbrews, one must tread carefully. Then again, one should tread carefully after drinking as much beer as Eli’s encourages, no matter the price.
Eli Cannon’s – Dinner Entrees between $8 and $12 – Three and a Half Stars
Leave a Reply