Wander three blocks past Broad Street Books towards Washington Street and your eyes will be drawn to a grand, teal Victorian-era home. Nestled inside is Sweet Harmony, a Middletown fixture. Its name is fitting. With its cozy hearth, oversized wicker chairs, laced curtains held by ties with faux-fruit attached, and an admittedly impressive collection of tchotchkes, Sweet Harmony evokes a garish, old-fashioned New England inn.

At first, the preciousness of the décor comes off as overwhelming, but Sweet Harmony’s tasty food offsets any feelings of unease from your surroundings. The café is not merely a place to treat your taste buds, though—it is also a gift shop. If Goodwill is not satisfying your craving for kitsch, you just may find that perfect, gaudy trinket for which you have been arduously searching. Just maybe.

This lunch-only spot serves a wide array of salads, sandwiches, entrees, and desserts, all of which are homemade. Daily soup specials are also available. The salads include an upscale prime rib on a bed of greens, a down-to-earth ham, turkey, and American cheese salad with carrot shreds and lettuce, and six or seven additional varieties. The selection of sandwiches is equally diverse and plentiful; they range from the vegetarian-friendly eggplant and hummus wrap to fleshy liverwurst on toasted rye bread. Entrees include bubbling macaroni and cheese, a “heavenly” chicken salad, and a fresh crab wrap. The beverage menu offers herbal and caffeinated teas, a fifties-style root beer float, and fresh fruit smoothies, among other appealing concoctions.

I decided on the black forest ham sandwich, which featured generous cuts of tender ham, melted brie, and a coat of Dijon mustard, all served on a French roll. It was a luxurious blend of salty and buttery flavors, and was quite – dare I say it – harmonious. The hint of spice and wine from the mustard pleasantly infused the richness of the meat and the cheese. The sandwich was not totally flawless, however: the ham was just a little too salty.

The friend I treated to lunch ordered a tuna melt topped with semi-circles of raw red onion. This sandwich was much too creamy due to a surplus of mayo and Swiss cheese. However, the rosemary focaccia on which it was served was lip-smackingly good: well-herbed, moist, and light.

Sweet Harmony is known regionally for its decadent and artfully crafted cakes. On any given day, its bakery boasts 10 to 15 homemade cake types. There are such classic American desserts as strawberry short cake, cream puffs, and a few different takes on chocolate cake. After an extended internal debate, I settled on a two-tiered carrot cake with a deliciously airy cream cheese frosting. This fresh, buttery, and perfectly sweetened cake hit the taste-receptor target.

The service was a perfect match for the vibe; the waitress was very hospitable (perhaps stepping into overeager) and had an appropriately sugary disposition.

If you are made uncomfortable by schmaltz, cloying trinkets, or mayo, I might walk down to another eatery on Main Street; but if you feel like having an enjoyable lunch in outlandish kitschville, give Sweet Harmony a try.

Location: 158 Broad Street (Between Court St. and Washington St.)

Hours: Open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Monday, and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Price Range: $$ (sandwiches average $9, entrees range from $8.95 to $10.95, and desserts cost $3.95 to $6.95).