Forbidden City Bistro and Art Gallery is, in a word, ambitious. The haute Chinese restaurant, which opened Dec. 17 on Main Street, attempts to bring SoHo sophistication to sleepy Middletown. With a few notable exceptions, Forbidden City succeeds in this pursuit. Owner Eric Leong and Chef Kevin Zhou remind us that there is more to Chinese food than crab rangoon and sweet-and-sour chicken. From the Escobar filet in banana leaves to the sesame crème brulée, the menu boasts many unlikely delights.

Making a reservation for Forbidden City involves the familiar frustrations of ordering from say, Fortune Wok; my name was twice taken down as “Alice.” Any annoyance is, however, instantly forgotten as soon as you are handed the menu. Appetizers are divided into two categories: hot and cold “Snacks in the City” (I assure you the Carrie Bradshaw pun was unintentional). Standouts include the crab cake and the eggplant. Made with water chestnuts and celery, the Yangtze River crab cake’s texture is surprisingly smooth, although the accompanying chili aioli only distracts from the dish. The eggplant is prepared in what tasted like a Peruvian cevische (balsamic vinegar, lemon juice and cilantro), but the menu is ambiguous about the exact details of the dish.

Seafood entrées are Forbidden City’s strongest. The Orchard shrimp is extraordinary. Prepared in a sweet mango glaze and served over a bed of fresh melon balls, this dish will make you forget about the below-zero temperatures outside. The steaks are ample and carefully prepared, but as in the case of the steak Pedong, the accoutrements overpower the meat itself. The scallops are somewhat salty, but the bok shoy they are served with easily makes up for it. The Hawaii Escolar, a member of the sea bass family, was beautifully presented and satisfying, although somewhat overcooked (white fish is not supposed to be chewy, remember). Avoid “Entrees out of the City,” which includes trite American Chinese favorites such as General Tso’s chicken and tangerine beef.

Desserts at Forbidden City are excellent, if not particularly Chinese. The sesame crème brulée is infinitely superior to Amici’s vile version of the French dessert. My only complaint is the illogical and tacky dollop of Reddi Wip that accompanied it. The Grand Marnier chocolate cake with raspberry sauce is the best seller, and it is as sinful as it sounds.

The décor of Forbidden City is at once both elegant and kitschy. The main room, with its exposed red brick, dark wood tables, dim lighting and beautiful orchids, exudes refinement. Distracting from this minimalist school of design are framed floral prints that look like they belong on a Vera Bradley bag, not on the wall of an upscale restaurant. Mounted on the wall behind the bar are about 100 bottles of what you’d assume is the house wine, but instead turn out to be a cooking Merlot. Still, relative to Tuscany Grill’s silk plants and neon Heineken signs, Forbidden City offers an atmosphere unparalleled in Middletown.

In an effort to attract Wesleyan students, Forbidden City now has Thursday night Martini specials. Normally $10, the drinks are sold 3 for $20 and complimentary hors d’oeuvres are offered between 5 and 7 p.m. House specials include a passion fruit martini and a honey ginger martini.

It is worth noting that Forbidden City has fabulous bathrooms, with sparkling blue tiles on all four walls, the floor and the ceiling.