Despite Middletown’s 23% Italian population, there is a surprising absence of first-class Italian food. Although Fiore II neither captures the harmonic simplicity of the best basic Italian cuisine nor does it take a particularly innovative approach in its interpretation of Italian cuisine, it remains far more satisfying and edible than most of its local competitors.
Despite the kitschy trompe l’oeil stone archways set to frame false pastoral scenes, Fiore II is clearly not interested in putting on airs. There are thankfully no gilded mirrors and no opera highlights playing over the speakers, as there are at a few other not-to-be-named Middletown eateries.
The food at Fiore reflects this same commitment to moderation. The portions are manageable, and the cheese and sauces are not applied in gooey excess.
Fiore II’s pasta and eggplant dishes are entirely vegetarian. The Eggplant Fiore, filled with sundried tomatoes and spinach and topped with a pink vodka sauce, is substantial, but the rich creaminess of the sauce overwhelms the more delicate taste of the eggplant.
There is more flair to the tangy marinara sauce that tops the Eggplant Rollatini. It is made up of two eggplant rolls filled with spinach and ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.
Based on Fiore’s reputation, I confess that I secretly hoped for homemade pasta, but the penne that came as a side dish to both of these dishes was most definitely from a box. It was, however, appropriately al dente, unlike the Mocon-esque overcooked heaps of pasta I’ve been served elsewhere in town.
The seafood menu is also more expansive here than at other establishments. Clams, shrimp, calamari and scallops are featured in a number of dishes, including the shrimp scampi and the calamari fra diavolo, served over linguine in a spicy marinara sauce.
All of these sea creatures converge in the Zuppa d’Pesce, a light seafood stew in a spicy tomato broth served over linguine. This dish is a treat in a college student’s seafood-deficient cuisine. At just over $20, it is the most expensive dish on the menu.
A regular marinara sauce and a white sauce are also offered as options for the Zuppa d’Pesce, but the spicy broth is the most traditional and the most flavorful.
Unfortunately, I was not able to sample the lobster ravioli, a favorite of regulars. Critics of the dish consider it too heavy—more like perogies than stuffed pasta. There is also some debate over how much lobster it actually contains, but these crucial questions will remain unresolved for this reviewer until my next visit.
The chicken or veal dishes may also merit a return visit. Observation of the plates being delivered to neighboring tables tempted me to consider coming back to try them. Fiore is known for its veal, and the variety of sauces looked appealing, especially the lighter marinara, wine or cognac-based sauces.
All meals were accompanied by soft rolls, that though warm and oily, lacked the crustiness and texture of good Italian bread. Salads were basic, but satisfying, with some distinctive touches, like a homemade gorgonzola cheese dressing.
The wine list was short, but all the staples were present. The cabernet sauvignon was quite drinkable, and, like many of the wines, it was subtle enough to complement most dishes on the menu.
Fiore II makes few attempts at innovation, sticking to the tried-and-true standards of Italian-American cuisine. But even considering this approach, it fails to achieve the balance that is the art of the best home-style Italian chefs who focus on using good ingredients and emphasizing the unique flavors of the elements in a dish.
Still, the food at Fiore is good enough. And even the most expectant diner will be consoled to learn that at least one of Middletown’s Italian restaurants is worth coming back to, if only for a simple plate of al dente pasta.